Sat.&Sun. Oct.15&16, 2011 Peak Colors Peak Crowds

Colors at mid-elevations were probably peak this weekend.   On the Old Rag summit we already had some trees with all their leaves gone.   Of course the rains early this week and the gusty winds of the weekend accelerated leaves dropping off their trees.   My guess is that there is still one more week of what I would call peak colors at mid elevations.

Notice how on the valley floor the leaves have hardly turned at all.

With peak colors and nice Fall weather you can be guaranteed that Old Rag will have a crowd.   Lines several hundred people long (sometimes as long as an hour wait) formed at choke points.   Here you can see part of the line on the first false summit waiting to enter the rock scramble.

This next picture is of the line at the Chute in the middle of the rock scramble.

Below is a picture of a very young lady topping out on one of Old  Rag's rock climbs.  Maybe she will be an ORMSer some day.

Since there was not a cloud to be seen the Old Rag sunset was not all that spectacular but still nice.

Since I camped near Byrds Nest Shelter overnight on both Friday and Saturday it allowed me to be on the summit before 8AM both mornings.   This gave me a couple hours of solitude before starting my duty near the chute a little after 10 AM.  

The various contingents of Sunday's Old Rag Mountain Stewards met on the summit.   After taking a short break from doing stewarding outreach we headed down for our days training on splinting.     We were very fortunate not to have had any needs for medical response on either Saturday or Sunday.    There were plenty of opportunities for providing outreach, and interpretation.

Make note of the trees with no leaves behind the Stewards in this picture.

Films, PATC DC History of Climbing

Films, PATC DC History of Climbing

A long time ago PATC made a film about rock climbing and someone has converted it and put it up as a series of YouTube videos.

Part 3 of the YouTube series PATC DC History of Climbing shows a route called Hollywood being climbed on Old Rag.

I found this old footage fascinating for many reasons. For example, the gully at the base of the summit climbs used to be an open meadow and even in the old days it was common to clean the soles of ones shoes off by rubbing them on your pant legs before attempting a particularly difficult move.

The film can be found at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ide2iu4pZc

A second short section of film demonstrating safety techniques of the day was also filmed on Hollywood and can found at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rguTBMwZ3FI&feature=related


There are seven parts to the PATC DC History of Climbing the other parts do not feature Old Rag but are interesting if you would like to know more about the early days of DC area rock climbing.

Hollywood is a route that does not appear to be in any of the current guide books. There is a brief mention of it on Rockclimbing.com. It appears to start on what today is called Pure Fun and then traverses over and finishes on what today is called the Pedestal.

The fact that this route actually had a film made about it but is no longer in any guide books is indicative of the fact that a lot of Old Rags' climbing activity has gone unrecorded or unpublished.

There are still lots of undocumented lines on Old Rag. Scoping out a possible line, dreaming about doing it, planning how you are going to do it and then doing a first ascent is a totally different experience than repeating a route for which you have even a small amount of beta.

Do not be surprised if in the middle of your first ascent you suddenly come across an old rusty bolt or piton.

If you do,
bask in the mystical experience of wondering;
whose hands caressed,
whose feet danced,
whose muscles tensioned in coordinated movement,
whose mind intensely focused on the very same holds,
whose kindred spirit shared this route,
across the gulf of time.

FALCON PROTECTION

CLIMBERS PLEASE TAKE NOTE:

THE SUNSET WALL CLIFFS WILL BE TEMPORARILY CLOSED IN ORDER TO PROTECT FALCONS

This is a rapidly evolving situation so I will post more information as I get it.

A lot of effort is going into helping this species reestablish itself in the park. This may be the only active nesting site for this species within the park this year so everyones' help with these efforts will be greatly appreciated.

There are many other rock climbing and bouldering areas on the Mountain that are still open. Refer to your guide books and online Beta sites. My blog has links to some of the online climbing resources for Old Rag. It would be good if you would pass the word along to your fellow climbers. If anyone has any questions please contact the park. Two of the SNP contact points that are closest to this situation are: Steve Bair, Backcountry, Wilderness and Trails Manager at steve_bair@nps.gov or or Rolf Gubler, Park Biologist at rolf_gubler@nps.gov.

New Climbing Film

If you are a rock climber you may be interested in the web site The Rock Adventure Film Diary for an upcoming film to be called Portrait of the American Climber by a young film maker story teller Director Oakley Anderson-Moore and Producer Paul Blair. The web site has some great out-takes of video interviews with famous 70's climbers. I am sure this shoe string budget film is going to be great. The web site is at:

http://rockadventuremovie.com/film.html

NEW OLD RAG ROCK CLIMBING BLOG/GUIDE

While cruising the web I just found this new BLOG/Guide for OLD RAG rock climbing. Between the Horst Book, Rockclimbing.com and this new BLOG/Guide Old Rag information is getting more available.

The author or authors appear to be very knowledgeable and to have put considerable care and thought in the initial writing on the blog. It can be found at:

http://old-rag-guide.blogspot.com/

I have also added it too my favorites list on the right.

If you are a climber keep in mind that the National Park Service is in the process of finalizing its Rock Outcrop Management Plan(ROMP).

A complete copy of the current draft ROMP including Appendix D the DRAFT Shenandoah National Park Climbing Management Guidelines

can be found at:

http://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?parkID=274&projectId=19298&documentID=25100


One of my very first BLOG entries back in December of 2008 was about the ROMP. The park is extremely interested in working with the climbing community for the purposes of protecting the natural resources on Old Rag and other rock outcrops. The park not only wants to coordinate with local rock climbing groups but actively seeks to reach out to them.

One of reasons the park formed the Old Rag Mountain Stewards was to provide outreach to Old Rag visitors in order to limit the impact on rocks plants and animals so as to prevent the need for access restrictions.

If the wrong things happen the park will need to restrict access but is trying very hard to never need to.

Keep your eyes and ears open for any future developments in regards to guidance from the park service as concerns rock climbing on Old Rag.

In the meantime just use common courtesy, leave-no-trace principles, and clean climbing techniques when climbing on Old Rag and all will probably be fine.

Sunday July 12, 2009 Last ORMS Weekend Until Fall
Very quiet lazy crazy hazy day of summer. First day it felt hot, humid and sweaty in a long time. No medicals or seperated parties. Lots of information and advice provided. I did an up and back on the fire roads and Saddle Trail. About a mile and a half up the road had to return to get new battery for my radio but got some very helpful rides which saved some time. Met up with the other stewards (Ann, Jeremy, Maria) doing their loop in the other direction just near the slab that overlooks Byrds Nest Shelter. They were having a quiet day as well. On Saturday the stewards had to help a hiker who dislocated their shoulder in the rock scramble. I had lots of reports of a rattlesnake on the trail but I did not see it myself.

Once on top I hung out on the summit until about 18:30. Got back down and left the lower lot at 21:30.

ORMS is not back on the mountain until late August early September but I will be doing patrols as a PATC Trail Patroller until then.


The start of the patrol.

Summit Climbers

Summit Climbers Closer

Climbers closer still.

Mount Robertson Panorama (stichted together double click for higher resolution)

Summer berries.

Bridge over lower Brokenback Run and a bridge to my PATC Trail Patrols until ORMS is back on duty in the Fall.

Sunday, June 21, 2009 Fathers Day and Solistice

Sunday, June 21, 2009 Fathers Day and Summer Solstice

I have two daughters I am equally proud of Meghan and Sarah. One has a blog:

http://www.unitedstatesofsarahlook.com/

Great weather, seventies breezy with big cumulus clouds.

In the picture below, there are two different parties lead climbing on Old Rag Summit. Most of the climbs on Old Rag are of higher grades and leads can be pretty bold. It takes a lot of knowledge and effort to enjoyably climb on Old Rag. It would not be unusual for climbers to miss out on a large part of their climbing day just to hike in and find the start of their route.

Imagine:

You hiked uphill with lots of climbing gear for over an hour before you have even started your bushwhack.

You can hear the hissing of a rattlesnake in brush so thick you can not see your feet.

You just spent an hour bushwhacking trying to find the base of your climb.

It seems like every branch in the park is getting snarled on your pack.

Your exposed skin is branded by spots of red inflammation caused by stinging nettles, abrasive rock, swarming bugs.

Among these frustrations some crazy people in orange grabbed you aside to remind you about Leave No Trace.

AND YOU THINK

YA RIGHT! I JUST WANT TO BAG MY CLIMB AND GET AWAY FROM ALL THE BAD STUFF ON THIS MOUNTAIN AND IF I TRAMPLE A FEW STUPID WEEDS OR HAPPEN TO LEAVE AN EMPTY PLASTIC WATER BOTTLE THAT THE WIND BLEW OFF THE CLIFF TOUGH. THIS IS REAL SURVIVAL STUFF. REAL WILDERNESS IS SURVIVED NOT PROTECTED BUDDY!
(Note: My satire is over the top and there is actually some correctness within the above. The early settler who killed the rattlesnake in his back yard to protect his toddlers has my extreme respect. The person who was in a 747 crash in the wilderness and did normally unethical things to survive has my respect. If someone in your party just sustained a life threatening injury than your priorities must change. There are no black and white rules, it is all fluidly changing with hundreds of variables. You truly have the lead. The Bridge and the Conn(authority for ship's control) in Navy parlance. The person on scene who on a moment by moment must make the best judgement they can.)

BE A PROUD MAMMAL THAT NOT ONLY BOLDLY STRIVES AND SURVIVES BUT DOES IT WITH SOME STYLE AND CLASS BECAUSE YOU HAVE A BRAIN WHICH ALLOWS IT.

HYPOTHETICAL STYLE SCORES FOR A DAY IN VARIOUS OUTDOOR ORGANISMS' LIVES (IN MY OFF -THE-CUFF, TONGUE-IN-CHECK WAY):
NEWBIE HIKER WHO ALMOST DIED BUT WHO IN THE END DID OKAY (ALL THINGS CONSIDERED) 7.5.
(Despite: The fact they left accidental impact.)

RAVENS ON THEIR BAD STYLE DAYS 8.
(I have a huge soft spot for ravens.)

RATTLESNAKES (who just brutally killed the mouse) 7
(Note: This reflects my prejudice against death not so much the snake's style).

LEAD CLIMBERS WITH YEARS OF EXPERIENCE ON A GREAT DAY 9.1.

LEAD CLIMBER WITH YEARS OF EXPERIENCE AND ON A BAD STYLE DAY 1.5 .

MAMMALS IN GENERAL ON BAD SYLE DAYS 1.8
(oops upon appeal 5.5)

PLANTS ON BAD STYLE DAYS 8.5

GROSS PAIN INFLICTING NOTHING GOOD TO SAY FOR THEM STINKY BACTERIA 9.0
(After all how much control over style can a bacteria be scored on.)

SUBURBAN COMFORTABLE NEWBIE HIKER WHO PURPOSELY AND UNCARINGLY LITTERS 1.5

GOD (9.99...... ) out of 10
(Everyone can improve).RATTLESNAKES, RAVENS, EARLY SETTLERS AND HUMANS THAT ARE NEW TO THE OUTDOORS ARE JUDGED WITH DIFFERENT HANDICAPS THAN YOURS. I ALWAYS EXPECT MORE OF BOTH MYSELF AND CLIMBERS.
PLAN AHEAD BE PREPARED

BE SURE TO CLIP INTO YOURSELF

WHEN POSSIBLE APPLY GRACE, STYLE. CLASS


Old Rag is a precious climbing resource. For certain types of climbing it is the only resource within a few hours drive of mid-Atlantic climbers' homes. Obtain Betta, read up, talk to climbers who know the mountain well, scope out what Old Rag is about and carefully and thoughtfully use it for the reasons it is unique. If everyone pitches in the climbing experience on Old Rag will be much the same twenty years from now as it was twenty years ago.

Once understood and approached appropriately, the bad and survival stuff fades to obscurity and the precious and aesthetic stuff crescendos to the forefront of importance. For yourself and the rest of us celebrate life, boldly explore, protect your safety but go a step further and do it responsibly, cleanly and with style.

Note: A January 2009 blog entry has additional climbers advice.






Below are some Old Rag Mountain Stewards involved in some ascending training.
In my opinion our simple orange T Shirts are simultaneous emblems of EXTREME PRIDE and ABJECT HUMILITY (like any other symbols assumed by practitioners of responsible formal ethical systems.)
On this wonderous day a beautiful multi-spectral beatle was accidentlally fatally injured by the MOST caring of responsible stewards who was trying to celebrate its magnificence in a photograph for the world to share. In a flash of a moment before the accident I was conscious of the danger and did not warn fast enough.
Another steward concerned about pain versus quality of life took the beatle's life and ended its suffering.
On almost everyday I am on the mountain I am concious of things I did but should not have or at least could have done better. A branch unintentionally broken or a centipede accidentally stepped on.
Perfection strived for but life is messy, mistakes are made.
How do I judge my actions?????
Who am I to even judge actions?????
When do you turn off reflection and just live????
Even simple can be complicated????
DAO DE JING
Let Go
FORGIVE YOURSELF
ROAR IN CELEBRATION OF LIFE FROM THE MOUNTAIN TOPS !!!!



An idyllic June day at Byrds Nest


Double click on the picture and the rattlesnake is still very hard to see. From the end of the big sawn off log look down to the rock on the trail below and see if you can spot the Rattlesnake.



Lots of amazing nature.

While not pictured here we received an amazing amount of botanical/nature training. Living large on a wondrously great solstice/father's day.
Red Admiral Sitting On The Trail Near The Summit

HUGE CLIMBING NEWS

TO BOLDLY GO WHERE NO PERSON HAS GONE BEFORE

Congratulations to Chad and Jeremy on their creatively conceived then boldly and cleanly executed classic FA and FFA (First Ascent and First Free Ascent). Many months of planning, dreaming and anticipating. Many days of climbing. Check out the blog entries on Shenandoah Mountain Guides titled A Long Way Around and Almost Alpine for a little bit of newly made climbing history.

http://shenandoahmountainguides.blogspot.com/2009_06_01_archive.html#1339646712155635486

EAGLE ONE INVOLVED IN DRAMATIC RESCUE

Check out the following huge news story:

http://www.insidenova.com/isn/news/local/article/dramatic_rescue_on_the_occoquan/36683/

Sat 4/18/09 BigCrowdRockFest

SATURDAY APRIL 18, 2009 First Overflowing Lower Lot of 2009
Note1: Most pictures show higher resolution if clicked on and or zoomed.
Note2: Much earlier posts have advice for campers and climbers.



An overflowing lot means backups at the crux.


Looking up rock scramble Sat 4/18/2009

2009 SHENANDOAH ROCKFEST see second half of the post.

2009 SHENANDOAH ROCKFEST

2009 SHENANDOAH ROCKFEST
http://www.dcmetroclimbing.com/

Saturday, April 18, 2009

First completely full lower parking lot of 2009 season. I heard that earlier in the day there had been a back up near the squeeze AKA crux.

I wanted to attend a RockFest 2009 presentation up at Pinnacles Research Station so I greatly shortened my patrol. I slowly made my way up to the start of the Rock Scramble and hung out there for about an hour before making my way back down.

On my way out at around 17:30 I passed at least 5 groups just heading up the mountain 3 of which did not have lights. I provided them with all the appropriate warnings.

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ADVICE PERTINENT TO BEHAVIOUR WITNESSED THIS WEEKEND

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If you are starting after 14:00 take some type of emergency light.

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Make sure you do a tick check when you get home.

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If you are up on the mountain and dusk is approaching do not hesitate to ask another party for help. If you are well prepared and it is late in the afternoon it would be good to watch out for parties who may be at risk.

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There are emergency phones at both the Old Rag Fee Station and the White Oak Fee Station.

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These phones are patched directly to the SNP 24X7 emergency communications center.

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If you get stuck in the dark or know you might get stuck in the dark DO NOT LEAVE THE TRAIL. If you leave the trail your chance of injuring yourself will be greater. If you are on or near the trail your chance of getting found by first light of dawn is close to 100% . If you are a long ways off the trail it is practically zero. From now until mid-Fall unplanned bivouacs will be unpleasant but most likely not lethal.

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While on the Ridge Trail I notice lots of people trying "Alternate Routes" on the rocks. There is no rule against this but if you sustain a non-ambulatory injury in the middle of the rock scramble it is very likely that it will take around 15 hours before you are placed in the an ambulance.

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Keep in mind the trail is situated such that anytime there are difficult moves the farthest you can fall is about 6-8 feet. If you are someplace with difficult moves with longer than 8 foot falls you are off the trail. If you are trying to stay on the trail backtrack and look for where you took a wrong turn.

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On Saturday I witnessed at least three parties take alternate routes on the rock which had they lost their footing they would have fallen 20 to 60 feet. Based on the skill of their movements none of these inidviduals were experienced climbers who had a deep knowledge of their level of skill versus the difficulty of their situation.

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If you know where the real trail goes and are purposely taking an alternate route be responsible about making sure that other parties who can see or hear you are not mistakenly following you thinking you are on the trail.

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Please do not goad other members of your party into doing things that are dangerous.

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2009 SHENANDOAH ROCKFEST

Instead of doing a complete circuit I cut my patrol short to go to a presentation up at Pinnacles Research Station concerning the SNP ROMP and Clean Climbing ethic. I was glad that I went because I learned some new facts and had others reinforced.

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It was good to get a first hand experience of the wonderful community of mid-Atlantic climbers who had come together to spend a day collecting trash in what were often vertically challenging or rocky situations. Over one hundred climbers sacrificed a beautiful climbing day to pick up over a TON of trash and many bags of recyclables.

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2009 SHENANDOAH ROCKFEST HELPED CARRY OUT INJURED HIKER

In addition to helping with the litter collection several members of the RockFest crew were able to help with a litter carry of a non-ambulatory injured hiker.

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THREE CHEERS FOR THE MID ATLANTIC CLIMBERS

http://www.dcmetroclimbing.com/

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Saw a small Bobcat on the stonewall along Skyline drive on way home.

http://www.dgif.virginia.gov/WILDLIFE/information/?s=050051

Saw my first Yellow Swallowtails of 2009.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_World_Swallowtail

OLD RAG CLIMBING ADVICE

OLD RAG CLIMBING ADVICE

Because there is already so much good information on Old Rag rock climbing this post will mostly point to it rather than repeat it.

My primary advice is to respect local climbing traditions and realize there will be some new NPS climbing regulations in the future. A good source to catch up on Old Rag Beta is:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Virginia/North_Western/Old_Rag_Mountain/

A good hardcopy book for Old Rag is the Eric J Horst book titled Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland.

Shenandoah National Park is working on a Rock Outcrop Management Plan which includes an APPENDIX D: DRAFT Shenandoah National Park Climbing Management Guidelines. The complete document can be downloaded at:

http://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?parkID=274&projectId=19298&documentID=25100

NEW REGULATIONS
The park is going to implement some new rules in order to protect; one-of-a-kind micro habitats, social trails from erosion, and falcon nesting sites. The Superintendent's Office or its designee is going to function as a regulator and clearinghouse of information concerning fixed anchors. Discussions and decisions about placement, replacement, and removal of all fixed anchors should go through this resource or its designee in the future.

GRADES
If you are new to the area keep in mind some outsiders might find the routes hard for their grade. Best to be a little cautious until you have adjusted to the locals grading traditions. Many routes can be either led or top roped depending on what you are up for.

SPECIAL RISKS PRANKSTERS AND UNSKILLED COPYCATS
The tops of some climbs are near the Old Rag hiking trails. The trails are sometimes full of young not well supervised kids and there is a small risk that they might think it funny to drop rocks and or may not understand the seriousnous of messing with your anchors if they are visible from the trail.

If you are soloing or bouldering where hikers might see you. Be concious of the fact that the sight of your easy looking controlled ascent might encourage them to try something beyond their skill level. I remember a day at a local frontcountry practice area when a slightly drunk non-climber in cheap sneakers decided he had to show off for his girl friend after watching a solid 5.10 climber flash up a wired 40 foot 5.6. Thirty feet off the deck this guy could not go up or down. Without the help of some rapidly responding local climbers darwinian and newtonian rules would have prevailed that afternoon.

DURING WARM MONTHS BE CAUTIOUS OF:
VENEMOUS SNAKES, TICKS, POISON IVY AND BEARS THAT MAY TEAR INTO AN UNATTENDED PACK. The best climbing is when it is warm on the hands but there are no green leaves out. There are Old Rag routes with every conceivable sun orientation and as you become familiar with the mountain you can make hot and cold comfort choices based on this knowledge.

RESCUE RESPONSE TIME
Keep in mind that Old Rag climbs are not in the frontcountry. If you consider any route that can not be belayed from your car to be mountaineering than Old Rag routes qualify. Assuming a party member has to hike out to an emergency phone at Old Rag or White Oak fee stations a non-ambulatory climber can expect to wait 6 plus hours for first repsonders and 15 plus hours for extraction.

I always liked Pat Ament's concept that your mental approach was your most important piece of protection. Be safe and mentally clip in to yourself when on the mountain.

MAY ALL YOUR EPICS END HAPPILY

Sat., Jan. 17, 2009 CLIMBERS AND CAMPERS

SATURDAY, JANUARY 17, 2009 COLD & GREY BUT ONLY A LITTLE ICE AND NO SNOW.

Low of around 0 degrees fahrenheit

About 12 cars in lower lot, 10 along the road and 12 in the upper lot when I arrived around 14:30. One car upper lot, one in lower lot when I left around 20:30. No injuries, two hearty groups going out had spent the prior night camping and I spoke briefly to one group camping near Old Rag Shelter Saturday night. The four person group which had camped along the Ridge Trail Friday night carried out lots of liter. They not only brought there own out but took the time to clean up for others. (THANKS) Caught a picture of a couple members of the group. Also got a picture of a couple of hearty rock climbers coming out. They also had camped out Friday night. Friday may have been the coldest night of the year (around zero degrees fahrenheit).

SNP Rock Outcrop Management Plan

If you are concerned about Old Rag's rock outcrops you should be aware that the NPS has released the Draft Rock Outcrop Management Plan for final comments to be made up until December 19, 2008.

The revised draft can be found on the NPS's PEPC(Planning, Environment, and Public Comment) site under the subsection for Shenandoah National Park.

I will be trying to send in a thoughtful comment which I will also post on this blog.