OLD RAG CLIMBING ADVICE

OLD RAG CLIMBING ADVICE

Because there is already so much good information on Old Rag rock climbing this post will mostly point to it rather than repeat it.

My primary advice is to respect local climbing traditions and realize there will be some new NPS climbing regulations in the future. A good source to catch up on Old Rag Beta is:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Virginia/North_Western/Old_Rag_Mountain/

A good hardcopy book for Old Rag is the Eric J Horst book titled Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland.

Shenandoah National Park is working on a Rock Outcrop Management Plan which includes an APPENDIX D: DRAFT Shenandoah National Park Climbing Management Guidelines. The complete document can be downloaded at:

http://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?parkID=274&projectId=19298&documentID=25100

NEW REGULATIONS
The park is going to implement some new rules in order to protect; one-of-a-kind micro habitats, social trails from erosion, and falcon nesting sites. The Superintendent's Office or its designee is going to function as a regulator and clearinghouse of information concerning fixed anchors. Discussions and decisions about placement, replacement, and removal of all fixed anchors should go through this resource or its designee in the future.

GRADES
If you are new to the area keep in mind some outsiders might find the routes hard for their grade. Best to be a little cautious until you have adjusted to the locals grading traditions. Many routes can be either led or top roped depending on what you are up for.

SPECIAL RISKS PRANKSTERS AND UNSKILLED COPYCATS
The tops of some climbs are near the Old Rag hiking trails. The trails are sometimes full of young not well supervised kids and there is a small risk that they might think it funny to drop rocks and or may not understand the seriousnous of messing with your anchors if they are visible from the trail.

If you are soloing or bouldering where hikers might see you. Be concious of the fact that the sight of your easy looking controlled ascent might encourage them to try something beyond their skill level. I remember a day at a local frontcountry practice area when a slightly drunk non-climber in cheap sneakers decided he had to show off for his girl friend after watching a solid 5.10 climber flash up a wired 40 foot 5.6. Thirty feet off the deck this guy could not go up or down. Without the help of some rapidly responding local climbers darwinian and newtonian rules would have prevailed that afternoon.

DURING WARM MONTHS BE CAUTIOUS OF:
VENEMOUS SNAKES, TICKS, POISON IVY AND BEARS THAT MAY TEAR INTO AN UNATTENDED PACK. The best climbing is when it is warm on the hands but there are no green leaves out. There are Old Rag routes with every conceivable sun orientation and as you become familiar with the mountain you can make hot and cold comfort choices based on this knowledge.

RESCUE RESPONSE TIME
Keep in mind that Old Rag climbs are not in the frontcountry. If you consider any route that can not be belayed from your car to be mountaineering than Old Rag routes qualify. Assuming a party member has to hike out to an emergency phone at Old Rag or White Oak fee stations a non-ambulatory climber can expect to wait 6 plus hours for first repsonders and 15 plus hours for extraction.

I always liked Pat Ament's concept that your mental approach was your most important piece of protection. Be safe and mentally clip in to yourself when on the mountain.

MAY ALL YOUR EPICS END HAPPILY